Well, to get the frame back into tip-top condition, and to remedy those areas of rust, I need to get rid of that black gunk all over the frame. Yes, I could keep it on the frame. In fact that was what I was originally thinking of doing. But I found out the hard way that its much harder to see any rust that's forming and catch it quickly. In the future I don't want any unwanted surprises!
So, armed with rubber gloves, white spirit, sponges, detergent and just about everything else I attacked the gunk!
After some trial and error I found the best technique for getting the stuff off. First, I gave it a good spray over with some engine cleaner called "gunk" - seems fitting! This seemed to soften the black layer, but not really dissolve it enough to allow me to wash it off. I found that good old white spirit and a kitchen sponge, with its rough side as a means to "agitate" the surface and allow the spirit to penetrate. With some elbow grease the spirit will turn the tar-like coating into a thick, gravy like black-brown liquid which I could either wipe off or wash off with soapy water.
The process is slow, messy and stinks! I'd set the back of the car up on stands on the road outside my house. As mentioned before my garage is a little on the small side, and the car only just fits in. However, January isn't the time of year to be lying on your back under a car wiping off black sludge with water and white spirit. Then getting coated in the same water and sludge mix. I ended up being very cold indeed.
Next time I'll try to set the car up in the garage. I'm planning to get another set of stands so I can have both ends of the car up and all wheels off. If I do this under cover I'll be able to really get stuck in!
Well, finally, after much hard work the big day came on Thursday, the 3rd of January 2012. The car was booked into the MOT station for 10:15 am and I drove the car down to the test centre for the big moment. As usual the car drew quite a bit of attention from people in the street as I drove down to the garage, plus even more when I parked it up outside the MOT station. Just about every single guy at the station came over to have a look, and soon she was up on the lift.
I took the chance to take a good look under the car, the first real look I've had at the rear of the car and frame. Alas the news wasn't good. The frame just below the engine and clutch and transmission was covered in gunk and oil, and again the epoxy was lifting away from the frame. Again this looks like its been like this for some time and will need attention! I need to get that awful black tar gunk off the area to look at it better and hopefully sort it out pretty soon. As for where the oil/fluid is coming from, that's also hard to tell. The dirt and gunk hides the spot really well. I'll just have to clean it down and investigate, but my gut tells me its the clutch rear seal thats weeping lubricant. That probably explains the problems in shifting and high clutch biting point. Either way, its not an easy or cheap fix!
The good news is after leaving the car in the capable hands of L&H services to do the MOT for an hour it passed with (nearly) flying colours. A couple of things need doing. The drivers side track ends on the steering rack need attention, plus the "full beam" warning light on the dash isn't working, nor is one of the number plate lights. Nothing which stopped the car passing the MOT. Next stop the DVLA and getting the car registered and fitted with a number plate. Then VIN 10719 will finally be "street legal".
Well, with getting everything ready for the MOT I came across one real problem with VIN 10719. The brakes had been playing up since I got the car from Southampton. After getting the car back home I'd checked the master cylinder and fluid reservoir and all seemed fine. The level was fine back then, but the brakes still seemed spongy, a problem which only seemed to get worse as time went on. Then a dreaded patch of clear oil appeared on the garage floor, right below the MC area of the car.
Sure enough the MC had been leaking oil out of the back, via the rear seals, down the front of the vacuum assist/servo unit and, worst of all, onto the frame. The DOT 4 fluid is very corrosive and had eaten away at the epoxy on both the frame and the tank cover.
Now, when had this all started. Some of the areas indeed look like they are pretty fresh. The epoxy has been damaged, but the steal below only had surface rust. But, further down the frame and on the tank cover the layer of rust was more pronounced, pointing to an older problem. Talking to the previous owner he assured me that "there had never been a leak", but the evidence does point to something that's been going on for some time. But, whatever the case this needs sorting.
Pulling the MC out revealed the problem with the rear seal. The whole area was dripping with fluid. The seal should stop any fluid finding its way back here, so that must be the point of failure. The question is what to do? The MC is original, and some searching on the net and questions on the forums revealed that to try and recondition the MC would be a false economy. The bore inside the MC was probably badly corroded and any reconditioning would be more expensive than a replacement.
So, biting the bullet, I purchased a MC through the DeLorean Eurotec club shop, which thanks to some excellent service turned up in a couple of days, and this over the New Year weekend as well!
With the MOT booked for the 3rd of January I needed to work fast. I pulled the old MC and servo unit out of the car and cleaned up and repainted the servo unit to look as good as new. The old reservoir is a part in very short supply, and was in great order, so that was transferred onto the new unit. Its held on with a couple of pins, so easy enough to do.
All the new parts went into the car pretty easily, and the brakes were bled using an easy bleed system to pressurise the MC and fluid tanks. I've never done anything like this before, but it all seemed to go very well, and the brakes are transformed.
The rust needs looking at, but I've already cleaned the black "tar" protection off the tank cover and affected frame area. Not a pleasant job! My car seems to have had this "protective" covering applied at some point. The previous owner had told me before purchase that it was a special "rhino" paint they use on flat bed trucks over there, but that's nonsense! This stuff is like a tar coating which can be scrapped off with a blunt tool. You'd never want it on the bed of a truck, it would get everywhere! I'll need to get it off all the frame, and that's going to be one hell of a job. But for now the brakes work, which is the main thing.
Well, following the problems last time with the two lights I installed being WELL below power I went out and purchased a new unit.
The new unit came from Halfords and is basically a fog light unit designed to be bolted to the underside of a cars bumper, so adding a fog light. Its an enclosed square unit including a single 12V bulb and reflector, plus a screwed down red lens.
My idea was to stick with the concept of installing a new, purpose fog light within the passenger side rear light unit. The open "centre" running light lens was a perfect position. It wouldn't detract from the brake light function, and would only enhance the running lights.
The purchased fog light unit was simple to open up. The red lens wouldn't be needed, but the reflector was needed to get the most out of the bulb. However, it was a little on the large size. Kept original it would get in the way of the running light bulb. So, simple fix. Just cut it down to size with a hack saw. This cut-down unit was then wired up with a couple of wires terminating in spade connectors and fixed to the inside of the rear unit using some double-sided foam pads (the sticky types). Bingo, one (concealed) fog light.
The wire back to the switch through the left side pontoon was used, as shown in part 1. As many people have done before I cut a hole in one of the dummy switches for a 16 amp illuminated switch, which would show when the light was on (an MOT requirement). I then needed a live feed from the headlight circuit so the fog light would only work when the headlights were on.
To add this function I tapped into the dipped beam headlight relay in the fuse box. The slot on the left-hand side at you look down from above is the one you want. I simply pushed the bare wire into the slot before re-seating the relay. I'll sort a more permanent connection if all works! It also needs an in-line fuse holder and a 10 amp fuse adding, just to make things safe.
With all connections made the last thing to do was to connect an earth from the illuminated switch to the earth (which I had now found and correctly installed) on the cigarette lighter, allowing it to light when in use.
All back together and it worked! One discreet fog light, without modifying the PCB board, or having to have an ugly light of the back of the car.
The purchased fog light unit was simple to open up. The red lens wouldn't be needed, but the reflector was needed to get the most out of the bulb. However, it was a little on the large size. Kept original it would get in the way of the running light bulb. So, simple fix. Just cut it down to size with a hack saw. This cut-down unit was then wired up with a couple of wires terminating in spade connectors and fixed to the inside of the rear unit using some double-sided foam pads (the sticky types). Bingo, one (concealed) fog light.
The wire back to the switch through the left side pontoon was used, as shown in part 1. As many people have done before I cut a hole in one of the dummy switches for a 16 amp illuminated switch, which would show when the light was on (an MOT requirement). I then needed a live feed from the headlight circuit so the fog light would only work when the headlights were on.
To add this function I tapped into the dipped beam headlight relay in the fuse box. The slot on the left-hand side at you look down from above is the one you want. I simply pushed the bare wire into the slot before re-seating the relay. I'll sort a more permanent connection if all works! It also needs an in-line fuse holder and a 10 amp fuse adding, just to make things safe.
With all connections made the last thing to do was to connect an earth from the illuminated switch to the earth (which I had now found and correctly installed) on the cigarette lighter, allowing it to light when in use.
All back together and it worked! One discreet fog light, without modifying the PCB board, or having to have an ugly light of the back of the car.